We produce most models in a week or less and ship them by overnight or two-day express. Small models can often be produced in two or three days. Large, multi-section models are likely to take more than a week. Any architectural model details are up to you.
Our charge is based on the time and materials, which are determined mainly by two factors: the overall, bounding-rectangular, volume of the model (not the "net" volume) and the complexity of the model shape. Once you know the size and contour "step" you require, the following guidelines should help provide a preliminary "order of magnitude" estimate:
Please don't hesitate to contact us for more guidance and help in your planning.
Our standard foam is 8 lb/cf polyurethane, custom "foamed" by the manufacturer. We believe this density and special foaming procedure provides for the best model appearance, with a good balance between durability and weight. The higher density is especially important if you're not planning on special model protection or on casting a reinforced copy. The polyurethane formula is ideal for a variety of finish techniques, unlike expanded polystyrene foam. Please note that the natural color of the foam varies due to the chemistry of foaming. This foam color will generally vary within a model and also change slightly when exposed to ultraviolet light. [Lighter foams cost less but look coarser and require more protection.] If you want more uniform and predictable color, we recommend that the foam be painted.
Our computerized machinery has made it possible to use a wider range of materials, including dense foams and acrylic (pretty much any machinable material which does not require coolant). Particularly appealing to some designers is our 18 lb/cf foam, which will provide a model which looks almost like it's cut from a solid block of greenish-grey chipboard.
Just phone, write, or e-mail, being sure to include your name and address. No charge if ordinary US Postal Service delivery is acceptable.
Yes, we will work with any rigid foam. We would strongly advise, however, that you be very careful of any foam under 6 lb/cf. Such light foam requires very special care and protection. Check with us about extra time which may be required to order the foam of your choice. If you have computerized data, in suitable format, our CNC router will cut models and prototypes from most any material softer than steel.
Certainly - this is not unusual. You might be surprised, however, how easily your clients would appreciate the value of specialization these days. This is especially true with almost everyone using fax, e-mail and overnight delivery services. A lot of architectural model builders find that they don't use their "foam carving machine" often enough, and they are delighted to be able to reclaim the space and keep their shop much cleaner. [Very few people require that their home or office be constructed by a "full service" builder. Just think of us as "the bulldozer guys."]
Sorry, but we're SPECIALISTS - producing shapes and sometimes painting them one color. For this reason, our clients do not have to worry whether our best work is really limited to the select few models we finish ourselves.
Since we are specialists "to the trade," we provide an "unfinished" product which usually requires additional work. The nature of this additional work can only be determined by someone who knows the overall needs of the project - including the purpose of the model and the way in which it is to be displayed and viewed . People who do not normally fabricate models would probably be wise to involve or at least consult a full service model maker.
Upon special request, we sometimes mount our foam models on a rigid substrate, such as MDF. While this may be a convenient low-cost alternative for the handling of a foam model, it should not be viewed as a permanent display base. Except for small models, we recommend an additional structural frame to support an MDF-based model and to stabilize it against bowing or bending. This frame might include an outer rail for mechanical protection and as a means to support an acrylic cover. Even models which are properly mounted and framed should not be crated in a way which allows them to be inverted and dropped during shipment, because this could fracture the bonds between model and base, causing serious damage.
Any paint. No ordinary coating will damage the foam and we've heard good reports on all kinds of paint. The only warnings we've heard pertain to models which people coated with relatively thick coatings of epoxy or urethane. It seems that coating shrinkage can cause cracking (and even warp a model).
If your data can be communicated with a .dwg or .dxf, the best first step would probably be to send a copy, along with a description of the model you desire, to nk@landfoam.com. If the file is over 2MB, please call to discuss using our ftp site.
For manually produced models, the ideal would be to send us a set of drawings at the scale of the model. If schedule or convenience requires, however, we can work with sketches and/or description, by voice, fax or e-mail. The key information is the plan dimensions, the scale, the step required, the amount of relief, and some description of the complexity. You can reach us by:
voice: 1 802 728 7098
fax: 1
802 728 7099
mail: Landfoam North
#6341 VT Rte. 12A
Braintree, VT
USA
e-mail: nk@landfoam.com
Please note that now that we have two shops to serve you, the computerized models are likely to be fabricated at our Somerville, Massachusetts shop - Landfoam Models Inc. (LMI). The handmade models and some of the computer fabricated models will be produced by Landfoam North, in Vermont.
We haven't found anything to indicate that the dust is more hazardous than ordinary environmental and shop dust, which should be avoided.
It is produced with a fire retardant ingredient. This reduces the hazard to a low level for most model installations. Certain applications, such as a large foam model which is wall-mounted in a public space, should be studied carefully to determine if the surface coating provides additional protection from ignition.
First, no ordinary glue will damage the foam itself. Since the foam is "closed cell," it would be hard to predict the speed with which air-drying adhesives will solidify. Due also to the general need for "gap filling," capability we most often recommend two-part liquid epoxy, selected so that you have enough working time. Contact adhesives are also acceptable under some circumstances, but you may need an extra coat on the foam side, and you should avoid joining rigid components unless they have large contact areas (without forced bending). [An obvious warning is to avoid letting an adhesive get on a surface which is to be exposed - unless it doesn't matter that the texture is changed by cell filling.]
This pertains to handmade models. First, we produce sanded models with very fine contour intervals (except at steep sections) in order to minimize "stair stepping" and reduce sanding. Second, we mill the large flat areas one step lower than the drawing shows - in order to compensate for the fact that they will not be sanded down Our computerized models are cut according to a virtual model surface which is created and sometimes "sculpted" by computer prior to cutting..
The foam is easy to cut with ordinary woodworking and carving tools, including your Exacto #11. It's also good to sand.
This would depend mostly on the purpose of the model, on the scale, and on the amount of relief across the model. If the relief is less than 2" (50 mm) or a detailed building model will be installed, you are likely to prefer fine contour, maybe .020" - .040" (0.5 - 1.0 mm). If the model is deeper than three inches, or if it's just for "massing" study, contours of .60" - .10" may be acceptable. In selecting a contour interval, keep in mind the following general tendencies:
Yes. We produce these in two alternative ways: by CNC router - or by milling a stepped model and then sanding it smooth. The determining factor is often the quality of the contour data. If it is good, the relief can be milled to a smooth surface and then line information can be engraved over the undulating surface, according to a 2D vector file. For example, paths, roads and property lines could be engraved with a cutting tool of .016 diameter, to a depth of .01" . If you are preparing a 3D model for machining (as by STL file), please note that it is generally best to leave as many discontinuities (especially building excavations and road curbs) out of the virtual model. Please provide continuous lines to define such discontinuities. We would "drape" this information over the virtual model and cut the defined areas as specified.
No. We certainly recommend checking the drawings to avoid serious errors, omissions and ambiguities. We produce a "shop drawing" prior to milling. This helps us work out problems with our clients, often with the help of faxed inquiries and clarifications. For computerized models, it is generally necessary for the client to provide drawings which are suitable, because we do not have the staff required to edit and refine your drawings quickly enough to meet most schedules.
This is one advantage of manually guided machinery. It facilitates addition of interpolated contours. It would be good, however, if you check for special conditions, such as entries and terraces, where you may want to provide spot elevations to guide interpolation. Addition of interpolated contours is a more complex issue for computer produced models, so we would need to study the individual situations.
We provide "rough excavations" to whatever depth you request. We generally recommend cutting to the "lowest adjacent grade" and leaving a little foam "trim margin." When good CAD data allows, our CNC router produced models can be cut with accurate building footprints, or a setback which you specify.
Usually not. In some cases, it's helpful to help people understand the shapes. It can produce confusion, however, especially relative to truly scaled buildings and trees. The larger the scale of the model, the less likely you are to need exaggeration.
If you can define the area of special interest, we can provide interchangeable inserts. If you must study the model first, you can ship it back to us and have us cut a hole and fit it with one or more inserts.
The models can be carved or sanded. Although we can provide limited quantities of thinly cut foam so that you can make small laminated additions, we would only recommend it in very unusual circumstances. If significant "bulldozer work" is required you might consider using the foam as a substrate, upon which you model with clay. Alternatively, you could return the model (by prior arrangement) and have us cut one or more "inserts."
We build them up from layers of three and four inch thick foam. This reduces material cost, reduces tool-clearance problems, and avoids warpage due to the internal stresses that are often present in blocks of foam. Furthermore, we don't know of a manufacturer which routinely provides foam blocks to the maximum size of our models. We conceal our glue by "inlaying" or "pocketing" each upper layer in the layer below it.
Yes, but they can be quite inconspicuous. On stepped models, we put the lamination at a step. On smooth models, we use our CNC router to cut a "pocket" into which we "inlay" the upper layer. This inlaid lamination eliminates the "feathered glue joint" which used to be impractical to avoid on most deep handmade models.
We only stock material which is 48" x 96", so that is a good size to remember. When appropriate, however, our new Thermwood can cut individual sections up to 60" by 120," . Our largest model to date was about 18' by 24' and our deepest model about 36" deep. Single pieces in excess of 48" x 96" (which are not glued together) require additional time for special order materials.
If you need a finished model, we recommend that you contact a model maker who can provide a fully coordinated product. If you only need a single-color site model, we'd be delighted to provide one directly to you..
Options depend on how well computerized the data is - whether it's practical
for us to use our CNC router or we need to produce the model by manual methods.
If you like, we can treat paths very much like we treat roads. The only
difference is that the scale of the model needs to be larger in order to make
this practical for handmade models. If you need a model at 1" = 16', for instance, we
might depress the roads by 1' (.060") and depress the paths by 4"
(.020"). Please note, however that this means that road curbs will
vary in height depending on whether there is a path adjacent to the road.
Alternatively, with the CNC router, we could engrave a very fine (maybe .015")
line on one or both sides of a path.
In the case of smooth models which we produce from your computerized relief, we can superimpose vector data from a separate 2D file which you provide. This allows us to engrave such information with an appropriate cutting tool. For handmade models, we can mark important corners with a "pencil twirl" (or a push pin) in the foam. You would have to connect the dots.
We can perform some "smoothing" without any problem. Completely eliminating that "style" may increase our labor charge, depending on the extent of revision necessary.
When the complexity is clearly irrelevant to the use of the model (and only adds "visual noise") we try to reduce it a reasonable amount. We don't get involved in much of this editing when we are producing computerized models, unless specifically requested and planned.
When specifically requested, we try to roughly balance cut and fill in a way to keep grades to realistic limits - such as 5% for parking and 10% for roads. Note that such contours would be approximated - only intended for better conceptual illustration, done without detailed analysis. This is generally more practical for manually cut models than for computerized models.
Although you can't simply push fine "weed" trees into the foam, it's pretty simple to push a wire of the proper diameter into the foam, in order to prepare a hole.
Certainly. Just schedule your visit by calling in advance, please.
As suppliers, we are not in a position to know or to judge such intangibles as reliability, economy and cooperation. We can only see the end result - and let that speak for itself. For that reason we do not want to be held responsible for the future performance of any company but our own. If we learn that our landform isn't well used for the intended purpose (from quick study model to fine museum exhibit), we'll avoid promoting the offender.
For the first model, we require a 50% retainer and the balance COD. After that we can gradually relax the terms toward 33% retainer and the balance in thirty days.
With our "repeat" customers, we discount our charges according to the volume of business they give us.
Generally not. Although we certainly prefer good computerized data or an easy-to-read print, we often prepare a "shop drawing" from information which is not well digitized. At this stage we can usually figure out the intent of the drawing - and, if necessary, telephone, fax or e-mail our questions for your clarification. The important thing is for you to be sure that your plan is not misleading enough to cause us to make the wrong assumptions and interpretations. Only you know the purpose of the model, so only you can judge the degree of control which is appropriate to exercise over the details of the landform. Unfortunately, there's no denying that bad drawings can cause problems which we might not be able to avoid. Our manually guided machinery is generally the best option for cutting models from "challenging" drawings.
voice: 1 802 728 7098
fax: 1 802 728 7099
email: nk @ landfoam.com
#6341 VT Rte. 12A
Braintree, VT 05060
USA
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Revised: April 15, 2008.
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